Orientation to Rificolona

This is orientation week at I Tatti for Seth (though I think it continues into next week, too), so while he has been heading up the hill nice and early and putting in the long hours I have been trying to get a few things done in town. My online courses started yesterday so I got a nice early start on the readings, and I have also been putting the finishing touches on a paper. However, I have also been spending lots of time just walking around. It is always interesting but also a little disconcerting because even though I pass hundreds of people each time I go out I don't talk to anyone. Most people won't even give you a head nod or want to make eye contact. I haven't spoken to anyone besides Seth since I went to I Tatti last Friday, and I haven't held a conversation with anyone since the Tuesday before then. It is hard not being brave enough to initiate a conversation with someone in a different language, and even if someone does say a word or two to me in passing I can't understand them anyway. Maybe if I listen to enough Italian pop radio and watch enough Playhouse Disney when I stretch I might magically get better. Even if I don't, at least I have Lorenzo and Handy Manny.

Two side-projects this week: Figuring out what the heck this is...

...and discovering the best way to prepare buffalo milk mozzarella

Tuesday night the city celebrated Rificolona, a traditional Florentine holiday that mixes the secular with the religious and coincides with the Nativity of the Virgin (Sept 8). It involves colorful paper lanterns that the local children make (though most lanterns these days are apparently made by children in China), which are lit with real candles and carried on poles. Other children are encouraged to shoot spit-wads at the lanterns to try to put out the candles or, better yet, light the paper on fire. The party started at 8:30pm, led by a bishop, and progressed as a parade through the streets and lasted until midnight. I believe the children have school the next morning. We had to miss the middle part of the parade to head to the Duomo for a small concert of sacred Baroque music. That was interesting, too, especially when the very quiet and delicate harp piece was totally overwhelmed by the passing parade. The Bishop should know better. Either way, I'm sure he knows now: he was at the concert!

The parade line-up at Santa Croce

Intermission with a small concert at the Duomo

The parade stopped at Piazza della Santissima Annunziata

We saw a priest buying some of these anise-flavoured Rificolona wafers. We figured he liked them because they resemble the Eucharist.

Kids trying to shoot out some high lanterns

A successful spit-wad

Last night the festivities continued at the river. Boats carried the lanterns and at the end of the night the most beautiful Rificolona was chosen. Not sure how they were judged--maybe number of holes?

Season's eating

One of the best things about living above a market, besides being able to shop for great clothes while also shopping for food, and being able to run upstairs with a bag of fresh vegetables and fruit to make into a salad for lunch (which we have done pretty much every day so far), is that it is so fun to see how the produce changes every day. Since arriving two and a half weeks ago, there are already big differences in what is available--we no longer see cherries and strawberries, for example, and instead are finding lots of grapes, beans, zucchini (with their flowers still attached), exotic looking mushrooms, and the odd pumpkin/squash or two. We somehow totally missed broccoli (can only really find them frozen every now and then), but melons, figs, plums, and peaches, thank goodness, are still around for now! However, I do wonder what they will do when tomatoes are no longer in season, especially since they seem to be such staples...

It is nice to be able to make use of what is available instead of relying on tropical suppliers like Mexico and Hawaii to completely demolish all sense of what is grown where and during what season. This isn't to say that all this produce is local (I don't know where they would grow bananas in Italy), but it is miles better than the want-it-so-got-to-have-it-now attitude so common in the US.

Views from the market this past week. I think I will take a couple pictures of the stalls every few weeks to see how the availability of produce changes through the course of the year.

Those nifty wine grapes are right up front. You can also see yellow-green zucchini flowers (they are usually used for deep-frying) and the first batch of autumn mushrooms.

One great example of eating-with-the-seasons is this tiny, seedy, sweet, intense purple grape used for wine and commonly eaten at the table. It popped up in the markets about a week ago, and around that exact same time all the cafes and bakeries started advertising having fresh schiacciata con l'uva. This is a flat, layered grape cake that you can only get during this three or so week burst in which the grapes are in season. I bought a little piece from the grocery store bakery, then decided to try making my own. Seth bought 3 pounds of the grape this morning and for dessert I tried making the cake. It turned out pretty differently from what you see in the shops--ours is more like a grape-filled biscuit than a grape pie type thing, but it is still tasty!

Coop's schiacciata con l'uva

Our schiacciata con l'uva. Pretty different, will need to try it again before the grapes disappear. The crust was made using olive oil (didn't think it was supposed to be used for baking, but I think it is pretty common here) and white wine.

Meetings at Sant'Ambrogio

**In case it is a little confusing, Sant'Ambrogio is a small little piazza where the church, Chiesa di Sant'Ambrogio, is located. There is also the market just around the corner, Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio.

Two nights ago when we were having dinner and watching passersby in the piazza, I mentioned in passing that there are so many people who come to hang out that it seems strange not to know anyone in the crowd. Last night, as a testament to how much of a local meeting place Sant'Ambrogio is, we actually did recognize a face in the mob--Seth's old instructor, Sandro, from when he took Italian at UNC back in 2004! In all fairness, Seth knew Sandro was from Florence and had just emailed him the day before--he is living in Lebanon but would be in the area for a couple weeks. So, we were eating dinner when he wandered by, and Seth said "that looks like Sandro... a lot like Sandro". The guy stopped at the side of the church and I told Seth to say his name, so he shouted "Sandro!", and the fellow turned around and it was him! Turns out that Sandro wasn't even staying in the city but came in to meet a friend at Sant'Ambrogio to go to Pizzaiolo (which is still closed, unfortunately).

Such a funny way to meet somebody! It was very much like the time we bumped into Seth's old friend, Luke, in Sydney, whom he hadn't seen in 10 years; we were walking back from the New Year's Eve fireworks and Seth spotted the familiar-looking drunk guy stumbling around, who, because of his height, stood-out from the hoards of other drunk guys--Seth asked him if his name is Luko, and sure enough it was the old Johns Boy!

We will have to get together with Sandro for dinner at Pizzaiolo before he skips town next week!

Back in business

Wednesday, the first of September, will officially mark the end of many Italian's vacations (Ferragosto). This past week shops have slowly started to reopen and we have been noticing fewer Italian tourists flocking the streets, though it seems like the heavy-hitting hot spots are milking their ferie for as long as possible--the I Tatti, the Biblioteca Nazionale, the post offices and other government agencies, and several popular shops and restaurants around our neighborhood. Right outside our door (literally) we are told is the best pizza place in Florence, as well as an amazing theater/club, and also the best lampredotto cart in the city. Lampredotto is a Florentine specialty--it is made out of the last of the four stomachs of cows. What's more is that it is one of the stomachs considered (by those not from Florence) barely edible. Seth is actually really looking forward to trying it, and as much as I love trying new foods, this is one experience I will have to pass.

The more we talk to people who know their way around Florence the more we have been coming to appreciate our location just a 5min walk north of Santa Croce. It seems to be populated mostly by Florentines, though just a turn of a corner throws you in the middle of tourist groups. Sant'Ambrogio is intersected by 6 streets, so it is always streaming with passersby; and besides the pizza place, theater, and lampredottaio, throughout the holiday the piazza has been host to the church and market during the day and a hopping wine bar at night. There also seems to be random outdoor markets that pop up unexpectedly in the next piazza around the corner--this morning there was a massive antiques market that went on for several blocks. Like I said before, never a dull moment. We imagine it will be a total madhouse once those other shops reopen!

However, since Sant'Ambrogio is on the cusp of the central city, the shops and restaurants are able to be fair and of good quality. We are a 10min walk from a large and very cheap grocery store and dozens of low-cost clothing boutiques and stalls. Seth and I have already been taking advantage of the cheap clothes, particularly of the end-of-summer sales (unlike in the US, here it seems like the shops are more season-appropriate and are just now stocking their fall lines). It is nice to be able to live like a local yet be just a few minutes away from museums and historic churches!

A jazz band that sprang up below our kitchen window a couple nights ago. They were actually really good!

Via de' Macci 66

Despite the heat and tourist crowds we still manage to spend quite a bit of time walking about town, attempting to become familiar with the winding, bustling streets, and allowing ourselves to bump into the lesser-known historic buildings and sites. This is usually encouraged by some errand, such as having to go to some post office or the train station to collect application materials for Seth's permission to stay in the country past the three month traveler visa. We also spent an afternoon walking quite a ways out of the city in search for a massive home-goods/electronics store called Ganzaroli, and on Monday took our first bus up to the Villa I Tatti; most of the other I Tatti fellows will arrive next week or the week after, so it was good to be a little early and not be too overwhelmed by new faces and names.

A highlight from the past week was going to the Accademia--it is open for free Thursday nights from 7-10pm until mid-September. Normally, if you don't book reservations you have to stand in a very long queue to enter, but since it was late and not well publicized we got to stroll right in. It was amazing to see The Slaves and David with hardly anyone pushing in front of us! We will return tomorrow night to view the other works of art a little longer and to spend a little more time with David ;o)

Sunday morning we had our pick of fabulous and beautiful churches to go to, but poor timing and heat limited us to Santa Croce. We had already been to its Saturday night mass when we were here last year, after which we were given the 'after hours' tour by our Franciscan monk. This time we were not so lucky and we were quickly ushered out soon after the mass. So much for coffee hour! There is one Lutheran Church in all of Florence (I think there are only about 20 Lutheran Churches in all of Italy!), and I think it would be fun to try out that one next time.

Here are a few pictures from the past week

The view from our shady reading spot in the Loggia

Caution: Jesus crossing on Via del Pergatorio

Corner of the Palazzo Strozzi

Our first (and so far only) meal out

The way to I Tatti (you don't actually go through the gate--there is a road off to the right that leads up to it)

The Villa I Tatti (you can see their vineyards on the hill)

Gorganzola + fresh figs, ricotta + strawberry preserves, and susine (plums) = the breakfast of champions (there was also plain yogurt with honey involved). Having lots and lots of local 'artigionale' cheeses and gelato every day has caused our saturated fat intake to go from practically nothing to through the roof. Dr Hayes would say to balance this with fish and olive oil, I suppose. We are working on that.

Where we eat dinner every night: the steps of the 700 year old Sant'Ambrogio church. The perfect spot for people watching--NEVER a dull moment, although this was a particularly quiet time.

The view from our bedroom window (Seth took this picture)

Lorenzo enjoying the view of the market (actually taken from the bathroom window)

The apartment

We have been here for one week now, and there is still lots to figure out. This past week we have managed, at least, to find a good routine: go for a run (for me always the same route, half dirt and half paved), do some grocery shopping (at Sant'Ambrogio market under our window and/or at the impressive Coop grocery store with low low prices about a half mile away), make lunch, go out for a couple hours and eventually do some reading (usually under the Loggia next to Palazzo Vecchio), cook dinner while Seth plays guitar, take the dinner to eat outside somewhere, make up cones of gelato, walk with them somewhere, then (at about 10 or 11pm) spend the rest of the evening watching terrible yet somehow entertaining Italian TV.

We have really enjoyed the apartment so far--it is solid as a rock (made of stone, I guess, and heavy beams of wood) and is very clean and modern. The place feels really large (we have barely even gone upstairs to the second bedroom), and the size is accentuated by the vaulted ceiling. Luckily the decor is our style (wooden, rustic, and with lots of art), and the large bedroom downstairs is perfect for letting Lorenzo run free in the evenings. However, there are a few important things that it is missing but seem to be nonessential in the majority of Italian households, most notably a microwave (they are very expensive, ranging from about $80 to hundreds of dollars), screens on the windows to keep the flies and mosquitoes out (I have been getting eaten alive!!), and a shower curtain (as you can imagine, this makes showering difficult).

On the other hand, we have some things that we will probably never make use of, such as a bidet (we are still trying to figure out how to use it), spare closets and shelves, a dishwasher, and instead of useful bake-ware (like measuring cups and baking pans) we have a couple dozen fancy little wineglasses (of all different types, for different wines), multiple types of little shot glass things, and several really elegant glass flasks probably meant for some liquor we have never heard of. This collection of drink-ware of course wouldn't be complete without about a dozen types of liquors and several bottles of wine (unfortunately all white). The guy who was here before liked to entertain, if you couldn't guess. Some other 'extras' that we didn't have in Waltham include a small little washing machine, air conditioning, wireless internet, a phone, and a TV. Of course, we will also have bills (outside our monthly rent) for the first time. Ergh.

Another addition: an Italian coffee maker (a moka). Very Italian.

The bidet and half-sized washing machine

Here are a few pictures of the apartment, though they are pretty similar to the ones I posted before we left Waltham in April.

Upstairs bedroom/loft

The master bedroom

Living room

Kitchen, dining room, and Lorenzo

Stairs and hallway upstairs

Our street

Our building--we are the two windows on the top floor (barely visible)

A neat thing on the corner of the street near our apartment

Settling in

We spent yesterday and today unpacking and getting accustomed to the apartment. Many shops were closed for Sunday, and a fair few are still closed today for Ferragosto, the last two weeks in August when many Italians go on holiday. The area seems relatively quiet, so it will be interesting to see the streets buzzing again in September when the rest of the city returns.

Running along the Arno

Our apartment is just like how the previous occupant, Myke, described. It is elegant and clean, well stocked with random cooking items, some wines, liquors, cutlery, linens, cleaning supplies, some toiletries, etc, and the TV, internet, and phone are still up and running from when he left (thank goodness we don't have to deal with those details on our own). It did take us an annoyingly long time yesterday to figure out how to do a load of laundry (the apartment actually has a washing machine!!), but in the end the clothes came out clean and the machine didn't flood or break down, so I think it worked. We are still a bit confused about all the different detergents, wash settings, and anti-calcium tablets, but I think we are off to a good start.

The view of Sant' Ambrogio (at only about half-capacity due to the holiday) from our kitchen window

Today we set up Lorenzo's nice new mega tank. It is at least 50% larger than his old aquarium, though it is a bit shallower. It is just a long plastic storage bin from one of the closets, and for a cover we have a plastic screen we got from a passerby at a shop (Seth asked her where she got it and she was actually trying to get rid of it, so she handed it off to us). Hopefully he doesn't get too destructive and figure out a way to escape from his homemade home. At least the lower bedroom is very secure so he has a new great big space to run freely in during the evening hours.

Lorenzo's new tank

We spent a bit of time checking out the best grocery stores, Sant' Ambrogio (the large outdoor/indoor market right next door), the local gelaterie, and last night made pasta to eat on the steps of Santa Croce. It is really quite amazing to be able to step out the door, turn one or two corners, and have your pick of beautiful, historic, and bustling piazzas to be standing in the middle of.

Dinner in front of Santa Croce (the pasta has a really great tube shape: like spaghetti, but bigger and hallow in the center).

One of the nifty vending areas. You can get an entire pasta dish out of that machine!

Baked ricotta from the Coop grocery store

Our first lunch together in the new apartment!