San Gimignano, enjoying the low-season

Seth had his shop talk/presentation at I Tatti a little while ago and afterwards we were treated to a nice dinner hosted by the director and his wife. I felt really spoiled as they served spaghetti con frutta del mare (fancy seafood pasta), rare tuna steaks, and molten lava cakes for dessert. After dinner there was an abundance of limoncello, coffee, port, and chocolates. My goodness... No wonder so many people have been gaining weight!

Now that the presentation is out of the way we have been able to enjoy a few popular sites which in three-fourths of the year would be swarming with big, sweaty bodies. Winter is such a great time to be out doing things without having to push your way through crowds, especially since the weather is so cool and sunny--not too hot, not too cold, not too rainy!

Last weekend we went around the corner to the Basilica of Santa Croce to see the Pazzi Chapel again and pay our respects to Michelangelo, Galileo, Rossini, Machiavelli, and hundreds of other famous Italains. Normally a tourist hot spot, we saved it for a drizzly winter's day. It paid off as there was hardly anyone there--except of course we had to deal with standing around the freezing cold church (heating apparently wasn't taken into consideration when they built it in the 1300s).

Brunelleschi's cloister

The Pazzi Chapel, a beautiful work of Renaissance architecture (also Brunelleschi)The altarpiece (Giotto) and frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi
in the Cappella Baroncelli, Santa Croce

Wednesday was Part 2 of the Uffizi, home of the greatest collection of Italian painting in the world. In the summer it is recommended to reserve tickets a month in advance, but of course we were able to stroll right in and it felt like we had the place to ourselves! We followed this with a lecture on Buontalenti at the British Institute of Florence. By comparison, this talk had a full house for sure!

Yesterday we took a trip to San Gimignano, about 2 hours away via bus. It is the epitome of "tourist trap", as highlighted by its torture museums, funky knife shops, and overpriced wine/liquor stores. We didn't even bother to go to the main church or step foot inside the three-room art gallery. Normally hopping with tours, yesterday it was calm and quiet, and many stores were closed for the winter. Why such a big draw to this tiny medieval town situated on a big hill? Well, it is like a scene from Romeo and Juliet--there are perfect little medieval streets, 11 surreal towers (out of 60 original), and an old wall, as well as an old well. It actually reminded us a lot of San Marino and Fiesole rolled into one. Similar to San Marino, inside the walls of San Gimignano there hardly seemed to be any locals living anymore--most buildings were occupied by restaurants, hotels, etc, and the town appeared like an empty shell. (Most of the locals seems to live just outside the walls.) I don't think I would ever visit during the summer, but still... who wouldn't be fascinated by this place?

San Gimignano's towers

Some of the town just outside the wallsThe main piazza with its very old well (no longer used--too many tourists taking photos by it would fall in)Picnicking in peace. Hardly anyone was there!Take a look at those vines climbing up the building to the right

The lighter-colored building was once a tower

Piazza del Duomo
Me with a cinghiale, which was making me hungry!

One of the highlights of the day was actually a walk outside and around the city walls. There were some great views of the rolling Tuscan hills.