Seth and I camped out last night then drove down here to go running around Lake Matheson. It is recommended to visit the lake in the calm early morning because it reflects, like a mirror, the two large mountains and glacier. After doing a lot of walking yesterday my legs don’t feel like working so I cut the run short and now I am waiting for Seth to return from his ‘glacial adventure’.
Yesterday morning we got up early to run up a lookout that provides a view of the Greymouth region. Not only was the climb too steep (it was more like using a StairMaster and less like actually running) but the clouds pouring over the mountains obscured most of the view.
When I returned from the ‘run’ I was able to use the internet (at Noah’s Ark Hostel) for the first time in a week. There are many places that offer internet, but those that have wireless are quite expensive (about $10NZ/hr- or about $8USD), or don’t have USB ports so I can upload photos. It was good to use it for a few minutes yesterday morning, but now I am getting antsy to connect again, since I still have bills to pay, need to vote, and want to send out emails, particularly to my parents who are in South America (though it also makes me anxious to get work done because it reminds me I am falling behind in my writing!!).
We had a quick lunch—the usual meal we have twice a day, which is a mixture of cornflakes, raisins, peanuts, honey, and oats with hot water and milk, with a side of yogurt, of course—then walked to town to stock up on more sunscreen and insect repellent.
After checking out of the hostel (it really was very cute!) we drove a few hours south, along the coast, to Okarito, which has a population of 30 people but can boast a very large lagoon. We went to check out the historic one-room school house-turned YHA Hostel that Seth stayed in when he came through Okarito 10 years ago. It was definitely one-room—bunks and cooking area and common room all in one! It didn’t even have a shower!
We couldn’t decide if we should stay there or sleep at the campgrounds, which were very cheap yet crowded with campervans. Since the hostel was empty we used their cooking facilities to make tea and warm up some courgettes (zucchini), baked beans, and canned tomatoes (another daily staple). I then went to talk to the YHA manager to see if she would give the two of us a deal but she said we couldn’t even stay there because it was fully booked… even though there was NO ONE THERE (even this morning when we passed by it was still unoccupied). Hmmm…
We took a walk up an old trig overlooking the lagoo (the walked looked just like scenes from King Kong, then I remembered that the newest version, by Peter Jackson, was filmed in NZ), came back to pitch our tent, then drove out to the lagoon/‘kiwi habitat’. We meant to go to the lagoon to watch birds but the road split and the path we took actually went up a another stinkin’ lookout. By the time we made it down most of the second track it was very dark and the sandflies were getting pretty aggressive, so we turned around, but stopped to listen for kiwis (NZ’s national bird- flightless, nocturnal, and endangered) along the way back to the car.
We made a second attempt to find a kiwi out by the track where we walked earlier in the day. We planted ourselves near a possible kiwi trail and sat in the dark (almost a new moon) for about 30min then realised we would probably only see one with lots of luck. Feeling tired anyways, we went back to camp and slept on the very rocky ground—we only have one sleeping bag to share so we unzipped it and used it as a top blanket, so there was no bottom sheet, only tarp :o(
This morning we left Okarito and drove about an hour south to the glaciers (Franz Joseph and Fox). We never did make it to the lagoon, ergh.
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